Somaliland (solo trip)

Somaliland is one of those places that few people know much about, and even fewer visit. When I told people where I was going, most of them asked me where that was. At the mention of Somalia, they'd get worried and ask me a hundred questions about how safe it is... I can't give anyone an exact answer, because every travel advice website I've seen warns against going to Somalia, and some say you should only travel to Somaliland if it's absolutely necessary. That's why I want to share my impressions and as much practical information as possible for anyone thinking about visiting this corner of Africa.

I've already "got my PhD" in travelling around Africa, so the idea of going alone, as a woman, didn't scare me much. Still, Somaliland is unique and takes a bit more preparation than most destinations, so let's take it step by step.

A bit of context: what exactly is Somaliland?

Somaliland lies in the north of the Horn of Africa, between Ethiopia, Djibouti and the Gulf of Aden. It declared independence from Somalia in 1991, after the fall of the then regime and years of conflict. Since then, it has had its own government, army, currency, passports and elections, but most of the world still doesn't officially recognise it as a country, and Somalia considers it part of its territory.

In practice, this means you'll feel as though you're in a separate country, with its own visa, border and rules, while bureaucracy (especially airlines) may still treat you as if you're travelling to Somalia. More on that below.

Planning and visas

Flights. I flew from Saudi Arabia to Ethiopia, and then from Addis Ababa to Hargeisa. Those flights cost me around 250 euros. Later, I flew from Somaliland to Djibouti (oh, that's a whole other story), also via Ethiopia. If you'd rather travel overland, you can also enter or leave Somaliland via the border with Ethiopia or Djibouti. Everything at the border went quickly and smoothly. Note that you can't pay for the visa by card.

Visas. This is where things get a little complicated, so pay attention:

• The Somaliland visa is issued on arrival and cost me 61 USD. You'll need an invitation letter for it.

• The Somali e-visa is paid for in advance. It cost me 67 USD + 25 USD.

Somaliland didn't care at all whether I had a Somali visa. However, since Somalia considers Somaliland part of its territory, it has instructed airlines to check before boarding that every passenger also has a Somali e-visa.

I tested this first-hand. At boarding, I explained that I was only travelling to Somaliland, that I'd be getting my visa on arrival and that I had an invitation letter. It didn't work. They told me I couldn't board without a Somali visa. On the other hand, one person told me they got through without one on their flight. Whether you take the risk is up to you, but my advice is this: if you're flying, budget for both visas and save yourself the stress at the airport.

Invitation letter and agency. I arranged invitation letters for both countries with the help of Macrobia Expeditions, an agency I also did a day trip with. They sorted everything out quickly and without any complications, and the vehicle was a 4x4, which comes in handy on the local roads.

You don't need to book tours for every day of your stay. You can get to many places on your own, which is why I only booked one day with the agency and spent the rest of my time exploring independently.

Tours and prices

I compared prices at several agencies. They generally start at around 250 USD for a day and a half, excluding accommodation and food. That's a standard price for Africa, nothing surprising, but it's good to know in advance that this isn't a budget destination if you rely solely on organised tours.

Tours most often include Laas Geel and Berbera. Even so, be prepared for access to some sites to be temporarily restricted, as it was during my visit. I didn't find out until I arrived, so I'd advise checking the current situation with your agency right before your trip, not just when you book.

Hargeisa

The capital is lively and bustling. The streets are full of cars, street vendors, wandering animals and people out walking. Much of the city has been rebuilt since the war, but in some parts you can still see traces of the past.

The war memorial. One of my first stops was the war memorial in the city centre, a reminder of the destruction Hargeisa suffered in the late 1980s. There I also met Dr Nakruum from the Ministry of Health, who told me a bit about their healthcare system. Spontaneous conversations like this are perfectly normal here, by the way. People love introducing you to their culture.

The money market. This is something you have to see. Cash is exchanged in thick bundles in the middle of the street, and the money changers sit behind walls of banknotes as if it were the most normal thing in the world. The local currency is worth very little, so even small amounts make huge piles of paper.

The irony is that hardly anyone uses those piles for everyday payments. Mobile money is so widespread here that it's used to pay for a lot of things. As a tourist, though, you'll usually pay in cash, mostly in dollars.

The livestock market. This was one of the most striking sights of the whole trip. Hundreds of camels, sheep and goats, traders haggling, dust and noise. It all reminds you that livestock farming is the backbone of the local economy. The sheep you'll see there are mostly Somali blackheaded sheep, a typical local breed you'll easily recognise by their white bodies and completely black heads.

What else to see in Hargeisa

If you have a spare day or two, Hargeisa has a few more places worth adding to your plans:

• The main market: A maze of stalls selling everything under the sun, from spices, frankincense and fabrics to electronics. This is where you'll best feel the everyday rhythm of the city. The goldsmiths' section, where traditional Somali jewellery is sold, is especially interesting.

• The Grand Mosque (Jaamaca Weyn): One of the best-known buildings in the city centre. If you'd like to go inside, dress modestly, and women should bring a headscarf. It's best to ask before entering whether visitors are allowed.

• Hargeisa Cultural Centre: A cultural centre with a library, exhibitions and events, ideal if you'd like to learn more about Somali literature, poetry and history. It's also where the Hargeisa International Book Fair is held, one of the biggest cultural events in the region.

• Naasa Hablood: Two almost identical hills not far from the city and one of the most recognisable sights around Hargeisa. They offer lovely views of the surrounding landscape, and the locals will happily explain their name with a smile.

• Cafés and tea houses: Not a sight in the classic sense, but sitting down with a cup of traditional tea or camel's milk and watching life go by is one of the best ways to get to know the city and its people.

Dhagax Kure

Outside the city lies Dhagax Kure, a site many people skip, but shouldn't. It's a cluster of granite rocks hiding Neolithic paintings of cattle that are thousands of years old. The landscape is surreal: huge boulders look as though they're balancing on top of one another and could be knocked over by a strong gust of wind, but that won't happen (I hope, hehe).

The better-known and more visited rock art site is Laas Geel, but during my visit access to the area was closed for a month. I heard two different versions of why, so I can't say which is true. If you're planning a visit, be sure to ask about the current situation before you set off. And if Laas Geel is closed, Dhagax Kure is a great alternative. Honestly, I really loved it precisely because we had it almost to ourselves. The road is mostly excellent, but the last 20–30 minutes of the drive can be really rough (the so-called African massage, heh). If you suffer from travel sickness, bring the tablets your healthcare provider recommended before your trip.

On the way, we passed village homes covered in layers of colourful fabric, and among the aloes and acacias I came across a tortoise, a dik-dik (a tiny antelope that looks like it's stepped out of a cartoon), beautiful birds and a few other animals.

Food

Somaliland cuisine is simple, filling and delicious. Food is mostly eaten with laxoox, a fermented Somali pancake-like bread that's soft and slightly sour.

What I tried:

• Camel liver, which was surprisingly good

• Beer, liver sautéed with onion and peppers

• Digir, a bean stew eaten for breakfast

• Slow-roasted lamb, so tender it falls apart

Meals usually cost between 2 and 10 USD, so you'll eat well and cheaply. And make sure you try their traditional tea! It's sweet and spiced and drunk at any time of day, and offering it to you is almost a matter of courtesy here.

The people

What I remember most fondly are the people. They seem to smile a lot here, and they were incredibly helpful, curious and open. I never once felt lost or unsafe... Everyone says hello or simply wants to chat.

Women often wear the niqab, and decorating hands with henna is part of everyday life, not just special occasions. As a woman travelling alone, I'd recommend dressing modestly: long sleeves, long skirts or trousers and a headscarf. It's not just about the rules, it's about respect, and people notice and appreciate it. I was complimented on my clothes several times.

One episode showed me the other side of people's attention. At one point I found myself at a celebration without knowing what it was about (I later found out they were celebrating Trump supposedly calling them the country of Somaliland), and within a few minutes I'd become the one everyone was filming. That's not exactly the best scenario, because someone later shared a video on social media that went viral, with the false claim that I was a journalist from Isr@el. It could have caused me quite a lot of trouble, and I can now forget about going to the rest of Somalia 🥲. I asked the person who posted the video to delete it, but he refused. He only removed the part about me being a journalist, but by then the video had already been viewed hundreds of thousands of times.

The lesson? As a foreign woman, you'll attract attention here, mostly the well-meaning kind. But be aware that videos spread quickly and that anyone can easily invent the context. Be careful where you show up, and if someone is filming you, feel free to politely ask them not to post it, though there's no guarantee they won't. I doubt privacy laws there are as strong as they are back home.

Something else I liked about the people was that I never felt they saw me as a walking wallet. Apart from a couple of children, nobody asked me for money. I also met a few locals who took me out for food and drinks and insisted on paying, stressing that it was part of their hospitality (I did sometimes pay anyway, because I felt bad that they were always the ones paying). One girl even took me to her friend's for free henna. In another post, I'll tell you a few interesting things I learnt about their lives.

Practical tips at a glance

• Visas: Budget for both, the Somaliland visa (on arrival, 61 USD) and the Somali e-visa (in advance), if you're flying.

• Invitation letter: Arrange it through a local agency before your trip. I recommend Macrobia Expeditions.

• Money: Bring cash in dollars; cards won't get you very far.

• Tours: One or two days with an agency is enough; you can do the rest on your own.

• Closed sites: Check the status of Laas Geel and other sites shortly before you go.

• Clothing: Modest and covered, especially for women.

• Photos and filming: Ask before photographing people, and be careful about who's filming you.

Conclusion

Somaliland isn't a destination for everyone, and the visa bureaucracy can be exhausting. But for anyone interested in lesser-known places, real people and everyday life off the beaten tourist track, it's an unforgettable experience.

If you have any questions about visas, planning or safety, feel free to ask!

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